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Safety of Life at Sea – SOLAS – Death of a friend

Port Townsend, WA, 23-DEC-2022 – A phrase from years ago, which was repeated to me with annoying frequency, was that sailing was safer than driving a car. I’d never really given it any thought.

Back home, in Mount Sinai Harbor, every year or two a drunk would fall into the water at the Mount Sinai Yacht Club and drown. But as Jennifer and my sailing years progressed, we came into direct and indirect contact with people who died on the water.

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Babbo

My dad, Vincent A Juliano, the Babbo of Caro Babbo in his college graduation picture, 1951

Today is the three-year anniversary of my Dad’s passing. I initially wrote this in the days following his death intending to publish on the anniversary of his passing. Life, as it does, got in the way. I wrote and edited portions in April 2021 at the Rocky Point house, the house I grew up in, preparing it for rent, reviewing the artifacts of a long life, and in quiet moments… just sitting and thinking. Time does not rest and months and now years have passed. I have left the dateline to match the day I started writing this.

Rocky Point, NY, 31-DEC-2019 – The first time I realized my father wasn’t perfect the world tipped on its axis. I can’t remember when it was, exactly, but I was an adult. A young adult, but an adult. I remember what I understood at that point in my life, my world view and my sexual experience, all of which frame a time.

My father died this past Sunday morning at Stony Brook Medical, as they are calling the university hospital these days. His heart stopped. It was related to blood thinners, with the nursing staff saying he must have clotted from too little thinner, and the on-duty MD saying it was internal bleeding from too much. Does it matter? He’s dead.

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Caro Babbo gets a living room

Caro Babbo gets a cockpit enclosure made from fiberglass tent poles that weighs 6 lbs and fits in a small bag for stowage.

Port Townsend, WA, 15-DEC-2022 – There is function and there is social pressure. Sailing is rife with both. Nonconforming will bring interest from some and the need to point out one’s nonconformity from others.

Salling is also full of individuals who don’t do things the way everyone else does. Like anything from sailing to beekeeping, there are many successful ways to do almost anything, and ways that are better in general and ways that are better in specific circumstances.

Dodgers, biminis, and cockpit enclosures fit, like anything else on a sailboat, into this dynamic.

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Caro Babbo sleeps, John has nightmares

Port Townsend, WA – 14-NOV-2022 – Traveling from Homer to Port Townsend was uneventful. We’ve been flying more and more the last few years, nothing like we did before I left the workforce, but we’re probably doing over 30,000 miles a year, each.

While Homer is seeing more and more private jets as the very affluent find the next place to colonize, for Jennifer and me traveling between Homer and the lower 48 involves multi-hour layovers in Anchorage. This time we got pretty lucky. Our flight left Homer at 10:15 PM arriving in Anchorage at 11 PM with a 1 AM connection to Seattle.

Ravn Air, Dash-8, is ubiquitous these days. We fly between Anchorage and Homer on these.

We took mass transit from SeaTac to Bainbridge Island and were in Port Townsend mid-day, Labor Day Monday.

Caro Babbo now has an inverted ‘‘V’’ on her skeg, which was not there when she went in the water.

When Caro Babbo came out of the water the aft lifting strap slipped further aft. Aaron, the man running the hoist, saw this and seemed to think it was okay. He has much more experience with this than I do, and I deferred to him. This may have been a mistake, as Caro Babbo now has two lines in an inverted ‘‘V’’ on her skeg, which, when we compare photographs, we see that they were not there when she went in the water.

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Waiting for Haul out in Homer

Homer Harbor, Homer, AK, 29-AUG-2022 – It happens whenever I live on a boat in a harbor for a while. The water loses the appearance of water and becomes solid like earth or a roadway. It has happened again here in Homer. We’re rafted up next to a Crealock 37 named Trinity. We look forward down a fairway towards the mouth where larger vessels tie up and raft together.

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Day is Done, Gone the Sun…

Homer, AK, 22-AUG-2022 – I hear the words to Taps in my head this morning. Our trip is over. We’re in Homer about ten days early. The weather in South Central Alaska has been such that staying a distance away risked not getting here by the first of September when Caro Babbo will be hauled out.

It looks like the Pacific High (pressure system) did not form this year – from what we see now that we can download large weather maps. Massive lows are coming in from Japan and up the Canadian Coast.

We’re rafted up with a 40-something-foot Hunter sloop. The Harbor Master says we’ll be fine as no one ever visits that vessel. We’d rather be in a slip than exposed to the traffic in the harbor. We also have to cross the Hunter any time we want to get to the dock. On the other hand, this is about as private as we will get – no one on the dock can see into our boat. I’m not sure they can even see our hull.

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The vessel has sank… please confirm there are zero four persons on board the skiff.

Raspberry slough*, AK, 14-AUG-2022 — today we need to get through a pass that can have very fast currents and get to Kodiak City before another low pressure system comes through with more wind than Jennifer is happy with.

The problem is the two software programs we use, openCPN and Navionics disagree about when things happen and how much.

Between two and two-thirty this morning the vessels coming up through Whale Pass started coordinating with each other on VHF. About three, I started watching the vessels that broadcast AIS on openCPN.

The final burst of vessels came through around three-thirty. I would have expected that was either slack water (no current in either direction) or the current had started flowing the other way, but it was more than half before they first vessel heading the other way entered the pass.

I could have called to ask about current strengths, but I wanted Jennifer to sleep.

Around 5:30, the coast guard started a dialogue with a vessel in distress.

We can only hear the coast guard. The vessel in distress is too far away for us to hear.

The coast guard: you’re taking on water. Good copy.

How many persons on board and what is your GPS location?

Zero four persons on board. Good copy.

Your taking on water. Good copy.

What is your GPS location?

Understood. You’re taking on water, what is your GPS location.

Then a few seconds of silence.

The coast guard reads back the lat and long. It is four degrees west of us and one degree south.

Good copy.

Do you have personal floatation devices and are all persons wearing personal flotation devices.

I don’t know whether all was calm on the vessel, or whether it was mayhem. At this time I don’t know whether this is a pro forma call to the coast guard or whether the vessel is in danger of sinking.

There are a few more back and forths. The coastie isn’t budging until he gets all the info he needs.

Do you have a phone number?

The coastie responds, good copy, which to me means no. I expect they have a satellite phone, but they are such a hassle that the cost guard agrees not to bother with it.

Finally, the coast guard says his words, and they pan-pan rather that mayday.

Pan-pan pan-pan this is the United States Coast Guard sector Anchorage, United States Coast sector Anchorage. At 13.20 universal coordinated time, 05.20 Alaska daylight time a vessel at coordinates, then he reads them, had reported taking on water with 04 persons on board.

All vessels keep a look out for this vessel and render assistance.

We hear the coast guard speak with one vessel, and after a few moments, the Coast Guard names a second vessel and says you are on site?

Then, good copy.

Then the coast guard asks for a phone number, followed by a few moments of silence and good copy.

Then several more moments followed by the vessel has sank. A few more moments, can you confirm there are zero four persons in the skiff?

After a few more minutes, the official message that ends with all persons have been safely recovered.

_____
*It took days to figure out why Prince’s Raspberry Beret was playing though my mind.
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Continue reading “The vessel has sank… please confirm there are zero four persons on board the skiff.”

Catharpin Blue

Geographic Harbor, 58° 06.670N 154° 33.961W , 13-AUG-2022 — Carly Simon’s plaintive song that goes, You say it’s time we moved in together, made a family of our own you and me. That’s the way I always thought it should be, you want marry me. Marry me

I haven’t thought about that song in a long time. It seems a song of regret or resignation for what should be an event of joy.

We’re heading back to Homer. This trip is coming to an end. Jennifer tells me she never wants to do things like this again. She doesn’t want to be afraid anymore.

She wants to get back to PT, plant her orchard and garden and watch things grow. Simon’s song comes to mind.

Next year we’ll spend a few months bringing Caro Babbo back to the pnw, see if we can get a slip at Lee’s Landing and live a quiet retired life.

I find the concept of this difficult in the extreme.

How you gonna keep down on the farm once they’ve seen paree? To quote another song from a different era.

But even I’m not that far off from Jennifer. I surprised Jennifer when I said I wouldn’t mind coming back to Geographic Harbor and staying for a month. Just being here and living in this place.

It’s a difficult thing to sort out. Being alive and pushing whatever boundaries we each feel.

Next year, Jennifer will be the age I was when we made our first trip up the inside passage. It was such an adventure.

_____

Hans and Sylvia showed up yesterday afternoon. They sat out the weather in Hidden Harbor. We’ll learn today how it was.

Yesterday, while out and about, we visited a charter boat. A strange charter boat and a strange interaction. Well, there was nothing too off about it, but… I don’t know.

The vessel is a big old work boat. A hundred feet or so, with a deck full of heavy machinery and a portable building.

A 25-foot aluminum landing craft-style skiff was on the starboard hip.

Jennifer and I saw her after we went through a tight passage between a small island and the shore directly west of where we were anchored.

As we approached, two people climbed down from the ship into the skiff: a man and a woman. He was close to my age, she was in her thirties.

They were wearing various cloth and stick-on badges that play to all the fashionable concerns tourists to this part of the world feel they should feel: She had WWF sticker with a panda on it; He wore a jacket with the charter company’s logo.

Behind them on the semi-covered deck a group of men were conversing, some in foul weather gear, others awkwardly getting into it.

The man and the woman stood at the rail of the skiff waiting for us to come alongside. Jennifer asked if she could grab hold of the skiff. They said yes.

They didn’t say anything beyond that. Usually, sailors greet each other with a good day or what vessel are you from, they were quiet.

Jennifer asked who are you? The common response is to tell us about their vessel. Instead, the woman responded with their first names. John and, I think Teresa, Jennifer remembers Laura.

Jennifer asked if they were from the world wildlife fund*, the woman answered, ”I am, he’s not. ”

I asked whether he owned the boat or was the skipper. John responded he worked for the owners of the boat. He said ‘owners of the boat,’ not ‘owners. ‘

We asked whether they were a charter and how many people were onboard: seven guests and four crew. The guests had just flown in on a float plane we’d seen come in. It was an exchange of guests.

The two stayed very close to the rail of the skiff and never turned towards the guests. Very much a barrier between us and the guests. An odd interaction.

The woman asked if we were from the small little sailboat. We said we were.

John started to say something and they had an easy demeanor when they joked about who was the boss.

We spoke with John about bringing the boat down from Homer. I then remembered seeing her in the harbor on the east side.

It had been a very difficult journey dodging bad weather. Making short day hops during intervals between weather systems.

John came across as the real deal and his experience confirmed what we had been seeing. He said something that we know, but which is good to hear. We asked what the weather was actually doing out in the strait. He said he didn’t know. He was away from the strait; he only knew what it was forecasted to do. It was nice to hear it from someone else.

Jennifer and I agreed it was time to go, we’d been there for too many minutes and their guests were all suited up.

When John and the woman climbed out of the skiff, a man in his thirties wearing an ”I love dirt” cap from a landscaping company took their place. He was very eager to speak with us.

He asked about the dinghy. We answered his questions, but we were holding up the guests so we left.

Usually, additional crew will come speak with us at the same time we speak with anyone on a vessel.

After we were a distance away, the skiff came by with the young man driving from the helm station at the stern. The woman was seated in the row immediately in front of him. The remaining seats were filled by the seven guests.

As he passed near us, he slowed and looked behind himself at his wake.

He gets our eternal thanks for that.

I don’t know, it felt a bit like something out of a Bond film. Everything was normal, but our interactions had an odd affect.

_____

Today, we’ll join Hans and Sylvia on their four-person RIB and look at bears and explore. Jennifer and I would also like to visit the sailboat that came in last night. They anchored in the next cove over, quickly and with great confidence from what we could see on AIS.

We’ll learn the name of their boat, which shows as Catharpin Blue.**

Hans and Sylvia have invited us over for dinner. This sometimes affects Jennifer, the boat is so big and ours seems so small after a visit. I don’t want her to become afraid again.

_____

I don’t know what will happen in future years. I’ve never been able to see my future and we have a plan for 2023. 2024 is too far away for me to ever plan, so there is no reason to fret about it now.

A summer in Port Townsend might be a nice thing… And then sailing again?

😉

_____

*Worldwide wrestling federation came to mind, but then I  remembered McMahon lost that trademark battle more than twenty years ago.

**Turns out it is pronounced Cat-harpin Blue. A catharpin is a knot used on square-rigged vessels.

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Threshold theory wins?

Geographic Harbor, 58° 06.670N 154° 33.961W 12-AUG-2022 — the wind is still this Friday morning at 8am. The wind disappeared about 9 pm last night and hasn’t been heard from since.

The two Park rangers, Mackenzie and Josh, came by in the late afternoon and hung out for a bit. The wind was gusting then.

They wouldn’t tie up and come aboard. Instead, Josh first held onto the starboard side of Caro Babbo’s cockpit, then onto our Portland Pudgy, Hilary Hoffmann, which was tied up behind us.

We talked about whether it was windy outside in the strait and in other places in the park.

Josh told us that two coves down, where the park ranger cabin is, it was too windy Thursday to put their boat in the water. Commercial fishing vessels were all bunched up in the outer bays getting out of the weather.

It was never that bad here where Jennifer chose to anchor, though I didn’t tell Josh that. Unbidden, he offered that this was the best place to anchor for this weather.

Today, Friday, according to Josh and Jennifer, things should start to subside. This morning, all is silent here, without a ripple on the water.

During the night, we once again heard on VHF channel 16 fishing boats coordinating their movements as they pass near each other. They are on the move again.

I’ll subscribe to Jennifer’s theory that the valleys and other topology can absorb certain amounts of wind, then it overflows tumbling down with force like a breached dam.

_____

We have some bananas we need to use, so I’ll make some sweet banana muffins, closer to cupcakes because I’m in that mood and we have an excess of eggs I want to use.

There is a banana souffle I make that only uses eggs, sugar and bananas. Perhaps I’ll make that for dessert tonight.

Tomorrow or Sunday we’ll move across the strait to Kodiak and continue our move back to Homer.

This hasn’t been the trip of years past when the weather was something we shrugged and waited out. Despite there being more weather and as an average more severe, it is us who have changed.

We are more practiced, more experienced, and have a now tougher boat, but we’ve let this rattle us, or we’ve let our fears infect each other.

I’m not pleased with this. I’ve had mastery of these things, where the thrill is mastering the adversity. Instead, we’ve let it emotionally cow us. It never has before.

There are no decisions I can think of that we would have made differently, but our view of them has changed.

Perhaps, I am not showing the leadership I should.

It is heavily overcast. All is silent.

It is a minus three foot tide*. The beauty is exquisite.

The context we bring to situations is everything.

Thank you for staying with us across the years.

_____

* A minus three foot tide is when the low tide is the feet lower than mean low tide.

In the picture, you can see the flats and land that is normally not exposed.

Yesterday, was a minus four foot tide. The water between the island and the land in our cove disappeared. A brown bear walked out to the island and was snuffling around.

There are is a tour company that has a 30 metre boat about a mile and change from us. They brought a couple of skiffs over.

We wave, they wave back.

I’m pleased and I guess proud that we get to do this trip this way.
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Second guessing: is this the best place to wait out weather?

Geographic Harbor, 58° 06.633 N 154° 34.032 W, 10-AUG-2022 — When I was learning how to keep bees, one of the veteran beekeepers talked about books to buy and followed with this warning: the bees haven’t read the books.

Jennifer and I are in an inlet waiting out the northeaster that every fishing boat we spoke to warned us about.

According to every weather model the wind will be from the northeast. We’ve chosen an inlet where we should be protected from that wind, and if wind does come we will drag into deeper water and out into the channel as long as the wind comes from any manner of east or north.

But, the wind since yesterday has come from every direction except south, even from due west.

See the attached screen shot.

Until about and hour ago, the wind was calm with gusts to fifteen knots every ten minutes or so.

In the last hour, the gusts have been predominently from the east, rather that northeast. The northeast is blocked by the very tall hill near us. The gusts are reaching 38 knots.

The weather prediction says gusting to 25 knots.

The major factors are topology and the goodness of anchors.

The hills, mountains and valleys both block and funnel the wind.

We don’t understand why at this anchorage and others, the wind is completely still with intermittent gusts of up to 30-something knots. Our experience tells us that the wind out in the more open water, or even the channel running north to the head of the bay, is constant with gusts.

In this anchorage, we only get the gusts.

Jennifer feels it is some sort of threshold effect. The topology will block the wind until a certain volume or speed of wind floods over the top of the blocking ridge, tumbling over in a great gusting deluge.

That does sound plausible.

I’ve wondered if the wind varies in direction and periodically passes through the labyrinth of hills and valleys to get to us.

Jennifer’s theory feels more likely, but I don’t know. If you know, or have any ideas please comment or email us.

Our anchor fascinates me. Ever since Jennifer’s fears made me give more thought to the seeming impossibility of a half-inch string of nylon holding a ten or eleven thousand pound boaat in forty knots of wind, I marvel at the less than two square foot triangle of metal that is at the other end of the half-inch thread.

The design is such that the more force on the anchor the further the anchor digs in. I see the effects of this whenever I raise the anchor.*

That string and that piece of metal hold in these gusts that swing 180 degrees.

The bottom here is quite dense and hard. Once dug in the anchor is tenacious.

Yesterday, the anchor needed to be reset. The wind and tide, rather than swinging 90 degrees side to side for 180 total, just reversed direction traveling over the anchor levering it out of the mud. In this hard bottom, the anchor did not reset well.

We reset the anchor by raising it, replacing it, and pulling hard against it using Caro Babbo’s engine (backing down on it).

(We then decided we did not like the new location, raised it again, and then set it again, where it is now.)

I pulled up the anchor three times yesterday. My arms, back and legs get strong doing this. I suppose my abs must be strong as well.

This morning we dinghied to the next cove over thinking, perhaps, it would be better for this weather.

In more limited winds that kept to the north or northeast it might have been better. The swing in that cove was limited to a very specific place and given the breadth of wind direction we have been seeing, we feel we are in the best place.

This still leaves the question of where Hans and Sylvia are.

We expected them to arrive yesterday, but we have not seen them. We’ve called on VHF and sent emails with no response. Their AIS isn’t working well, so we can’t see them that way.

Jennifer suspects they went to a place called Hidden Harbor. It is a very nice place with a tight entry. We there in 2020. It might be a great place for these winds, but a valley leading eastward might, instead, funnel the winds.

Such a different year. In 2020, the weather was calm winds and sunshine, mostly. We did hide from weather more than once.

Hans and Sylvia are due to join us when the weather clears, this weekend, perhaps. But Jennifer tells me we may be here until Tuesday. I should start cooking fun things with this time to ourselves indoors. (Did I mention it is raining all the time?)

Given we would be here this many days, we took the dinghy off the foredeck. This makes the dinghy really accessible and allows light into the forepeak cabin. It is very nice.

It also means we can light our Newport diesel furnace. Hurray. It puts out huge amounts of dry heat, uses very little electricity as compared to the Webasto forced air unit and I believe (and hope) less diesel fuel.

The Newport requires a chimney that sticks out of the deck where we store the dinghy. The chimney needs to be assembled and is about three feet tall. In gusts of thirty knots we were afraid the chimney would be blown off the deck, so I taped the two joints with duct tape. The bottom of the chimney is only warm to the touch, the top joint is hot enough to discolor the tape.

We did try the furnace with the top fitting directly on the deck. The wind outside just blew out the flame and forced smoke into the cabin.

It was nice to be that warm. I need to be that warm occasionally: we shed our sweaters and long johns… Such decadence.

_____

It’s nighttime now. The winds have been completely erratic coming from every direction on the compass. The new forecast has the windy weather and large waves lasting longer than the previous forecast.

Last night the wind lay down completely around midnight. I’m hoping the same will be true tonight. The gusts have been fewer, farther between, and generally less powerful. As it was this morning, between gusts the wind is almost still.

Here’s to a quiet night, a good night’s sleep, a good anchor, and good holding.

_____

The next morning: the only important news is that the anchor held.

Until about 02:30, the wind blew consistently at 25 knots, with gusts to 30. Then, returned to no wind with gusts from all points of the compass.

The sky is dark, the Newport uses more diesel than expected.

We may watch a video together. Or read a book to each other.

* If you search our blog, using the search tool, you can find pictures and more about our Rocna anchor.
Find our location at Carobabbo.com along with blog posts